#31 – 2014 Vols ‘Wiltinger Kupp’ Kabinett – Saar, Germany

Estimated retail: $25


I could let one of the all-time catch phrases suffice in place of a description for this damn fine Riesling, but that wouldn’t make me much of a blogger. Still that’s the thing with truly great Riesling, it has a purity that can make you react in the most unadulterated manner. Howling at the moon or stomping on the ground are completely acceptable responses. No style hits me on a guttural level quite like the renditions grown in Germany that dance between sweet and dry. The other worldly acid mixed with the sublime fruit and touches of residual sugar come together in such a profound way.

The Saar is an emerging sub region of the famous Mosel. That’s not to say the region or its incredibly steep vineyards are new, but there has been a renewed emphasis on making wine. Estates such as Weingut Forstmeister-Geltz Zilliken are classics, but newer operations like Weingut Vols are storming the scene. Founded by Helmut Plunien, who grew up in the area, the winery has blown me away the past five vintages. Helmut only began making wine here in the late 2000s, but he is driven and has tremendous knowledge of the region and a clear passion for wine. His fruit is sourced from around the region’s two most prized villages: Ayl and Wiltingen along the Saar River.

His entire line-up for the 2014 vintage had the sort of acidity that left me giddy. There is an excited, slightly nervous energy running through the wine—like standing on the edge of something big. The Wiltinger Kupp is a beautiful site with a mixture of red and grey slate. The wine shows yellow kumquat, lightly pickled apricot, lemon verbena, beeswax, and that wet slate character. It chimes in at 10 percent alcohol meaning it has a little bit of residual sugar going on. The brilliant acid keeps the wine vibrant and tart though. At the moment, I’m seriously regretting have only ordered six cases for Caracol. This wine is going to do some howling with our incredible Tostadas de Jaiba. ∞

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